2017 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy, Chardonnay 750ml
The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Village opens in the glass with a youthfully reticent bouquet of white peach, Meyer lemon and spring flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural palate with ripe but racy acids, a pretty core of fruit and good grip on the finish. There appears to be a touch more cut and structure here than is found in the house's village level efforts from Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault. The 2017 is a great success for Olivier Leflaive and the house's able winemaker Franck Grux. While the scale of this important négociant house sometimes wins it short shrift from Burgundy collectors, the truth of the matter is found in the glass. The whole range this year is very solid indeed, and with Leflaive's "Récolte du Domaine" range, Grux has evidently pulled out all the stops to produce wines that can confound the prejudices of even the most skeptical. Many of these bottlings are derived from Olivier Leflaive's share of the Domaine Leflaive vineyards, which only recently reverted to him, and these cuvées in particular are worth every effort to seek out - William Kelley.