2018 Arnaud Ente 'les Santenots du Milieu' VOLNAY, BURGUNDY, FRANCE. 750ml
That Arnaud Ente is rarely seen outside of his vines or cellar is a reflection of his tireless dedication to his métier, and a key to the stellar quality of his wines. For the Entes, it’s not about pursuing the spotlight, although their incredibly sought-after wines have made them stars in the region. Arnaud and his wife, Marie-Odile, work primarily on their own to craft an exquisite range of micro-production white Burgundies from Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. Precision, purity, elegance, and finesse are the best descriptors of the Ente style. Each vine is nurtured through every step of the yearly cycle, and each cru and village wine receives the exact same impeccable treatment; even the “entry-level” Aligoté and Bourgogne Blanc show the layered richness and complexity of a much more sophisticated appellation.
Their neighbors joke that they aren’t sure how the Entes put food on the table when they observe such minuscule yields. Their most extensive holdings are in En L’Ormeau, a climat located just below the town center of Meursault, which possesses a deep, rich clay soil. They separate their vines here into three cuvées, Meursault AOC, “Clos des Ambres,” and “La Sève du Clos,” based on the age of the vines and their relative position within the clos. Their holdings also feature parcels in the premier crus Meursault La Goutte d’Or and Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts, as well as a small parcel in the enviably-positioned lieu-dit Les Petits Charrons on the slope just above the village. They also dabble in Pinot Noir, including modest holdings in Volnay.
Once the grapes are in the cellar, there is only a restrained use of oak to add subtle structure and texture. Their wines show the baffling paradox of intense old-vine concentration with crystalline weightlessness, and are known to slowly uncoil over many years in the cellar. Racy acids and deep minerality mark each cuvée, giving freshness and tension. Arnaud and Marie-Odile make wines that compete with the very best, and they just keep getting better with each new vintage. Uncorking a bottle of Ente is always a special occasion.
- KERMIT LYNCH
