2022 Hochkirch 'Towards Laidlaws' Riesling. Henty-VIC. 750ml
A textural, fruit driven Riesling that appears almost amber in the glass. Pineapple and preserved lemon.
John & Jennifer Nagorcka are the beautiful Hochkirch. The first plantings of Hochkirch vines was in 1990 on land farmed by John’s family for three generations. With a background in science, tempered by the family legacy of peasant farming, John’s initial response to vineyard management was to avoid all chemical inputs.
They have been farming organically since 1995 and Demeter certified since the early 2000’s. The wines are a testament to the Australian natural winemaking legacy.
"From a single site, the keenly named Towards Laidlaws, which could be the neighbour’s name or some such. Then again, maybe not. There is a Laidlaws Road about thirteen clicks away southwest of Hochkirch however. Curious. Towards Laidlaws could also be a character in an E. Annie Proulx novel, it came to mind.
This is superb. And idiosyncratic in the best sense. Waxy textured, medium weight, all the preserved citrus fruits, pleasingly bitter nuttiness as an undertow. Savoury before fruity, yet refreshing too. It feels of another place, maybe time, but drinkability is all charm, kind of like a rich, alpine white or similar. Far from linear styles. A touch peachy through the finish. Relaxed, serious, deep riesling, a proper, flavour-packed white of charisma, depth and true complexity. It should mellow through maturity beautifully too. A gourmand wine." Mike Bennie Winefront.
