2016 Maison Valette Pouilly-Fuissé, Burgundy, FRANCE 750ml
After years of trying, it was with great interest that I at last paid a visit to Philippe Valette's elusive 8.5-hectare Chaintré estate. The Valette family were the first to exit the local cooperative, and they rapidly won a reputation for rich, concentrated wines that were frequently celebrated in the pages of this publication. On leaving school in 1990, Philippe began to convert the domaine to organic farming, and since 1992, their wines have never been chaptalized. Influenced by a meeting with Pierre Overnoy, Valette has come to identify with the natural wine movement, and today, his wines see little or no sulfur and increasingly long élevage—indeed, the 2006 Clos de Monsieur Noly spent fully 12 years in barrel. If the estate's wines through the late 1990s were simply powerful, textural examples of high-quality white Burgundy (notes on several will appear in the next installment of Up From the Cellar), the wines being released today belong in a category of their own. Complex and sapid, I find them fascinating, but readers should be prepared to find wines that are quite different from any of the Valettes' neighbors. Anyone who appreciates the Jura bottlings of Jean-François Ganevat or the Thomas Pico Chablis wines is likely to love them! My experience is that they often benefit from extended aeration, and I tend to decant Valette's wines or follow them over several days.
William Kelley | The Wine Advocate | Issue 244 End of August 2019
(from 60-year-old vines; aged for 30 months in older barrels): Pouilly-Fuissé produces the grandest wines of the Mâconnais and it's best wines can age for many years. This terrific wine offers a riveting combination of rich, roasted hazelnuts and grapefruit with bright acidity and deep, powerful minerality; it's medium to full-bodied, textural and concentrated, with a bright spine of acidity and a long, saline finish. Bottled early last year, this is the latest release of Valette's regular Pouilly-Fuissé. Super
NB: 2014 Vintage is pictured for illustrative purposes only!
